Thursday, November 20, 2014

A Tantalizing Glimpse: Bunny Mellon's Plane

I was just speaking to a friend recently about Bunny Mellon's private plane and how curious we were about the interior of the plane.  Were there baskets, hats, a Rothko??  Here is a tantalizing glimpse at Mrs. Mellon's plane:

Bunny Mellon's private plane.  Image from Sotheby's.
xo, Juliana

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Bunny Mellon's Well Appointed Desk

There are many wonderful things in the upcoming Bunny Mellon auction at Sotheby's but some of my favorite pieces are Mrs. Mellon's desk accessories.

Rachel 'Bunny' Lambert's very well appointed desk:

A group of gold and bamboo pens by Cartier:

A gold and agate bowl by Schlumberger:

A gold sea shell clock by Schlumberger:

A sodalite, gold and emerald letter opener with an agate and gold letter opener:

A gold sea urchin clock by Schlumberger:

A pair of gold and lapis lazuli picture frames:

A pair of Schlumberger pens, one with coral accents:

A gold pearl and diamond box inscribed ' Happy Anniversary Darling Bun, 1 May 1977'

and I believe Mrs. Mellon had this rock crystal and sodalite rhinoceros by Fulco di Verdua on a mantle but I would keep it on my desk:

Collection of Bunny Mellon.  All photos from Sotheby's.

xo, Juliana

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Baby It Is Hermes Cold Outside

I am feeling very Katy Perry, Hot N Cold, about the weather in New York these days:

You change your mind 
Like a girl changes clothes

'Cause you're hot then you're cold
You're yes then you're no
You're in then you're out
You're up then you're down
You're wrong when it's right...

You know what I mean?  Last week it was 70 degrees and this week it is going to be 14 degrees.  So home for the holidays on the east coast, could be hot, could be cold...

I adore this Hermes sweater with an illustration by Dimitri Rybaltchenko.  Not only is it ideal for whether or not the weather is hot or cold, it also has a lovely bucolic snow scene with horses, goat herders and a giant, ancient tree with its boughs covered in snow.

Hermes 'Winter Scene' Sweater.  Available for purchase here.

Dimitri Rybaltchenko has written that his illustrations are meant to invoke dreams, magic and world of childhood.

xo, Juliana

Bunny Mellon Style

I am sure you know, Cristóbal Balenciaga did the complete wardrobe of Madame Bunny Mellon until he retired and Hubert de Givenchy took over - Mrs. Mellon even had her own atelier in Maison Givenchy.

"She was very shy, very timid.  I never thought she would order any clothes from me.  But the next collection, we sent off sketches and samples and she ordered a lot of clothes."

Givenchy even made her gardening hats - which is really the ne plus extra in chic don't you think...

"I made hats in denim, and jean, and cotton.  Because Bunny bought in quantity.  And sometimes I would say to her, 'Bunny why do you need so many?'  And she'd say, 'Because I might lose it.'"

So, as I was reading and looking through the catalogs last night, I saw a photo of Mrs. Mellon that I had not seen before and fell in love with how chic and classic she looked in this particular photo:

I was very fortunate to have bought a couple of Mrs. Mellon's Balenciaga's a few years ago for RARE vintage and you can see them here and here.

xo, Juliana

Friday, November 14, 2014

& Just Because

If you saw the film Julie and Julia, didn't you, truthfully, just want to get through the Julie part to get to the juicier Julia part?  I confess I did and now someone spent the time to edit out Julie and we have: & Julia.

Bon appétit!

xo, Juliana

Bunny Mellon and I

Tomorrow the preview starts at Sotheby's for the Bunny Mellon sale and I am soooo excited to see Mrs. Mellon's collection!  Sadly, none of Mrs. Mellon's famed Balenciaga and Givenchy wardrobe is included in the sale but I did see a bag in the catalog that I am sure was custom made for Bunny Mellon by her great friend and couturier, Hubert de Givenchy.  

The bag has the name of the Mellon's Virgina home, Oak Spring Farm, and the reason why I strongly suspect it is Givenchy, because Givenchy made all of her wardrobe and...

This is my Givenchy bag which had belonged to my husband's grandmother.  It has always been my favorite summer bag and now I love it even more that I know the very discreet and very chic Bunny Mellon was carrying a similar bag.

xo, Juliana

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Valentino's Butterflies

One of my favorite new pieces at RARE vintage is this beautiful Valentino haute couture dress from the 1970s with butterflies.

1970s Valentino Haute Couture Butterfly dress available for purchase here.

I have not yet bought Valentino's new book, Valentino: At The Emperor's Table, but I am looking forward to seeing the world of Valentino.  He has been a long time collector of china and objets and those pieces in his home have influenced his fashion designs as well.

"My tables today, they are almost like one of my dresses, I try to put in detail.  Because I love objects, I love to put flowers, I love to put mint, chocolate, everything on them.  I love color.  And this comes from my fashion design career.  I love colored tablecloths, because china is very beautiful on top of pale yellow, dusty pink, pale and jade green color."

Valentino's butterflies in Gstaad on china:

and butterfly detail on Valentino's silk couture dress:

So do you think Valentino would have thought of the color of this dress as mint or a pale jade green?  Either way it is a very beautiful dress, beautifully made, rare and sets just the right tone of lady like chic with its scarf tie front and the bit of the bohemian with the fluttering butterflies.  Perfect for lunch at the Emperor's table don't you think?!

xo, Juliana

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Shockingly Short: Marco Zanini Out at Schiaparelli

Well, truthfully, I don't know if it is so shocking that Marco Zanini is out at maison Schiaparelli but I am a little sad that he was not given more time to awaken a sleeping beauty.  Schiaparelli had slumbered for nearly 59 years  before Zanini showed his debut collection for the house and it has to be expected that it would take a little time and perhaps a few espressos before the house was up and running and finding its way in a new century.  But in this new century, everything is now!  Right now!

I think given a little time, Zanini could have been a good fit - there was perhaps too much nostalgia for the 'hard chic' of Elsa Schiaparelli's 1930s but there were also some beautiful moments that showed promise...

a few of my favorites - I loved the accessories...

Spring 2014:

Best dress - there should have been more like this (the price points were very expensive - even for couture).   It looks modern, fresh and yet still within the codes of the house and soooo fabulous - love the cuffs on each arm, the pockets, the flip flops...

Fall 2014:

I absolutely loved this rat infested gown and the cropped 'monkey fur style' bolero:

Haute couture is for dreamers, fast fashion is for realists and the twain should never meet.  The fashion world needs a place for dreamers to dream and I am dreaming of rats on silk and a gilded ring in the shape of a Venus the fly trap...

xo, Juliana

Monday, November 3, 2014

Bob Mackie Then and Now

I owe a special thank you to Cherie of Shrimpton Couture for this post on Bob Mackie, Then and Now. Cherie, who has a great eye : ) found the 1991 image of Gabrielle Reece, looking muy calinete, in a Bob Mackie bead embellished sunflower yellow bolero and she remembered seeing the Bob Mackie bolero in our RARE vintage collection and emailed me the image.

Bob Mackie Then:

and Bob Mackie Now at RARE vintage:

1991 Bob Mackie beaded bolero available for purchase here.

Thank you Cherie!

xo, Juliana

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Donald Brooks on Shirley Bassey and at RARE vintage

If you read the blog regularly, you will know I love finding images of pieces we have at RARE vintage  from back in their day.  So it was exciting to see this image of Shirley Bassey wearing our Donald Brooks jumpsuit sharing cocktails and giggles with Joan Collins.  Looks like a super glamorous time doesn't it?!

Image from Penny Calder Instagram

Donald Brooks jumpsuit can be purchased here

xo, Juliana

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

One Perfect Dress

Have you ever noticed when you go on a trip and you have thoughtfully planned your packing that at the last moment, right before you close your suitcase, you are suddenly filled with doubt and fear.  Do you really have enough...  What if you desperately need... I once packed so spartanly for a trip to Europe that I actually packed more clothes for my husband then myself.  And everyone knows there is no way a husband needs more clothes then his wife : )  

So there you are with a stuffed suitcase and what happens?  You pretty much wear the same few things the entire trip.  You really just need the right thing.  

This Azzedine Alaia Spring 2015 dress is the just the right thing.  In a shade of electric blue with finely woven sheer lace circles, a longer length that works for flats or for heels and the very amazing black leather belt cinched at the waist with a circular hook.  It really is the perfect dress.  

xo, Juliana

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Oscar de la Renta 1932-2014

Oscar de la Renta passed away yesterday at his home in Kent, Connecticut.  He was 82 years old.

I think there is no doubt that Mr. de la Renta's legacy will be his gorgeous and lush cocktail and evening dresses.  They were not complicated or intellectually challenging but designed to make a woman look and feel her best.  And what woman/girl does not feel lovely in silk faille and gowns richly embellished with beading, feathers... They were always feminine and flattering and perhaps safe - which is certainly one of the reasons he dressed four first ladies - and just this month, Mrs. Obama wore Oscar for the first time.

This is one of my favorite photos from Vogue that is really a summation of Oscar de la Renta's world: it was photographed at his home in Kent in his famously beautiful garden, with his step-daughter Eliza Reed Bolen and two other young society women, Marina Rust and Aerin Lauder.  Mikhail Baryshnikov dives into the pool.  The ladies are in gowns and while Mr de la Renta may have dressed their mothers, he stayed relevant for their daughter and granddaughters too. 

My daughter the morning of  her 2013 4th grade graduation wearing Oscar de la Renta and a fascinator her Spansih teacher made.  I think Oscar would have approved...

xo, Juliana

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Fashion Will You Still Love Me, Will You Still Need Me When I'm 93? The Iris Apfel Edition

The models just keep getting younger and younger, oops I mean older and older, these days.  

The latest ad campaign for & Other Stories, the sister brand to H & M, features not Gisele Bundchen or Daria Werbowy but nonagenarian all around fabulous wears so many necklaces I am surprised she does not topple over because I think I would, Iris Apfel.

The photographs were taken in Iris Apfel's apartment by Ari Seth Cohen.

I love the beaded dress for 145 pounds (!) and look at Iris rocking the silver embossed knuckle rings!  And the gloves are pretty great too for 55 pounds.  & Other Stories will be opening in New York on Broadway.

xo and see you at & Other Stories, Juliana

Monday, October 6, 2014

John Galliano to Maison Martin Margiela!

According to WWD, John Galliano is headed to Maison Martin Margiela to become creative director.  It is both exciting and baffling at the same time.  On the surface it seems a bit of an odd fit for Galliano, a designer of lush, exotic dreams of fantasy fashion and the paired down all white house of Margiela.  But there is the couture - and January haute couture will be Galliano's debut for Margiela - the ready-to-wear and the secondary line MM6.  

And then again - maybe there are some similarities...

Martin Margiela Spring Summer 1990:

and John Galliano's first collection Les Incroyables in 1984:

Margiela's dressmaker form vest from Spring 1997 (and see here from RARE vintage):

and Galliano's undone Christian Dior dresses from the Fall 2005 couture collection:

I can hardly wait until January!

xo, Juliana

The Duchesses and Dior

"When Dior invented the New Look in 1947, my mother-in-law, 'Moucher' Devonshire and her friend, the Duchess of Rutland, who were in Paris for a less frivolous reason, wanted to see the collection.  They arrived at Avenue Montaigne in their tweed overcoats, which had done years of war service, and ditto shoes.  They weren't allowed in. Of humble nature, the two duchesses were disappointed but not at all surprised.   They sat on a bench eating their sandwiches to pass the time till they could decently return to the embassy where they were staying."
From Debo, the Duchess of Devonshire's book, Counting My Chickens


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